The Dempster and Arctic Ocean

The Dempster Hwy is 737.5 km hwy in Canada that connects the Klondike Hwy in Yukon to the NW Territories in Inuvik. After the Dempster is the Inuvik Tuktoyaktuk Hwy that is 138 km that takes you all the way to the Arctic Ocean. It opened in 1917 and until that time residents of Tuktoyaktuk relied on planes in the summer and ice roads in the winter.

They really should call it the Dirty Dempster. Imagine driving a dirt and gravel road for approximately 461 miles one way and then 461 miles back. There are also 2 ferry crossings along the route. Gas stations are limited and internet service is just as limited.

We set out initially wanting to get to Eagle Plains which is where the first gas station is–229 miles in before we could fill up. Pulling a camper uses more gas so we were sure to carry some extra–just in case. While driving and realizing we were going to get to Eagle Plains mid afternoon, John and I discussed going a little farther and thought maybe we could get passed those ferries before settling in. The first one was only another 115 miles–or close to that and the second one was about 40 miles farther. We just thought since the ferries didn’t start until 9:00 in the morning (and we seem to be early risers) it might be good to get that far. We ended up going all the way to Inuvik and camping there. I think it was about 11:00 pm when we arrived. We lost an hour because we went from Pacific to Mountain time so I am not sure what time it was. John was up again around 6:30 (naturally). Sometimes I wish he would slow down a little. We didn’t pay when we arrived because the office was closed until 7:00 am. Finally someone arrived about 7:30 and she just told John to not worry about it because she wasn’t ready. Score–especially for John. He loves a good deal–we even had electric which is great because here we were in the Arctic Circle and it was hotter than any place we had been. And mosquitos were horrible.

I decided to divide this post into two posts because it was going to be so long and I am hopelessly trying to edit a video so I can post that. This really might take a while.

Who Do You Listen To?

Before our trip we spent hours reading, watching videos, documentaries and googling info about all the places we were visiting as well as the roads we would be traveling. Many hours spent on the computer or in front of the tv doing research. Oh and let’s not forget the hours of reading posts on different Facebook groups with reviews, tips and tricks for people who have been there or were traveling and posting as they go.

So, who do you listen to? You read one thing and then someone says the total opposite. Then you have people in the groups arguing over who was right and who was wrong. Reviews are no different than someone’s opinion. And we all know what opinions are compared to. We all have one. You really have to consider the source before you take someone’s advice. There are a lot and I do mean a lot of people out there giving their 2 cents worth who really and truly don’t have a brain–but they sure think they do. And I have found those people are twice as likely to give their advice and argue consistently. Before you listen to just anyone, do a little research on them. Check out other things they say or do to see if their opinion really matters. I know, who wants to do that.

I thought I learned this lesson years ago but found I was still listening to idiots. Let me give you an example of my lesson learned years ago. I feel it should have been the best lesson but it will surely stick with me now.

Years ago, my daughters treated me to a trip to Puerto Rico. One of our plans was to go to a Bioluminescent Bay. While having dinner just before going on our little adventure, while I was in the bathroom my girls were reading reviews. When I came out one of the girls left to go to the bathroom and the other showed me the review. I can’t remember which one showed it to me but the other one told that one not to show me the review. She did anyway. Well that review was written by someone claiming to be a triathlete. This person went on to brag about how young and fit he/she was. Well, the review was horrifying. This triathlete struggled tremendously and didn’t think he/she would make it. The dark had this person terrified and claimed people were crying and bumping into others and falling in the water and couldn’t get back in their kayak. After all the terror this triathlete had to return to shore with sore arms still terrified. . .

You can imagine what I thought. OMG! Here I am 60+ years old, way over weight and definitely out of shape. My God, I was a pencil pusher. I reconsidered and told the girls to go ahead and I would wait for them. They convinced me to go and I honestly don’t know how. The leader took Christy in his kayak–she didn’t even get an oar and he teamed me and Melissa up. I was sure we were doomed. We climbed into the kayak, listened to his instructions and paddled out to the bioluminescent bay. Many times we had to put our ‘brakes’ on because Melissa and I were so damned good we were passing the leader. We got out to the bay, enjoyed seeing the glowing fish and paddled back to shore. I can’t begin to imagine why this triathlete was struggling. That was easy peasy. In fact, this fat old lady could have done it again. In addition with over 50+ kayakers out there not one fell in, not one cried (that I heard or heard of). I only heard oohs and aahs and laughter and joy. Well, time to get out of the kayak. Ok, now I know what that triathlete struggle with–getting out. I mean I struggled. I literally had to tip over onto the shore. The girls were laughing–as were quite a few others. But that was the hardest thing about the entire trip.

Had I listened to that one reviewer–I would have totally missed out. So consider the source and if you don’t know the source–check them out.

Chicken, Top of the World and Dawson City

This is from the Top of the World Road

We left Fairbanks heading for Chicken, Alaska. We planned to meet up with Judy and Mike at the campground before we cross the border back into Canada. It took much longer than we had anticipated as the road to Chicken was probably the worst road we have traveled so far. In addition we had no service for the longest time. Longer than I had thought we would. I honestly thought we would have service as soon as we arrived in Chicken. Joke was on me. Chicken is comprised of 12 residents–and I believe they all work at the 2 campgrounds there. Back in the day Chicken was a gold mining town–well actually they are still mining gold and the 2 campgrounds allow you to pan while you are there. Guess what we did?

We indeed met up with Judy and Mike–they are feeling much better–not 100% but much better. Dawson City is only about 100+ miles from Chicken but, the road is dirt and gravel so it was slow going. Our plan was to camp in Dawson City and prep our campers for the Dempster Highway. We received lots of good word that the Dempster was in good shape. The road to Dawson City is called The Top of the World Road and it is rightfully named. Would you believe the picture at the top is pretty much the picture I took at the Top of the World. Oh, and this one.

The Top of the World Highway on the US side was paved from Taylor Junction but I don’t remember how many miles that was. It was paved to the Canadian border and then it was dirt and gravel again. We had to wait for a ferry to get across the Yukon River to get to Dawson City. It’s free but we waited about 40 minutes while 2 ferries transferred others. Judy and Mike were right behind us and they actually made the same ferry as us. We checked in Bonanza Gold RV Park and John and Mike are sealing up windows and such. Tomorrow we will head out on the Dempster Hwy to Tuktoyaktuk where we will see the Arctic Ocean and I am hoping to be brave enough to take a dip. I know John will and I really want to but, it is cold water. On the bright side it is going to be somewhere in the 80’s. We can only get the weather as far as Inuvik which is still 144km or 90 miles from Tuktoyaktuk. When we leave here we will lose our service. I will lose my wordl streak. I better see a lot of wildlife.

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